The Treehouse Guide News http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/ Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:24:21 GMT FeedCreator 1.8.0-dev (info@mypapit.net) Re: Norfolk, UK treehouse http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/forum.php?req=thread&postid=237 no_email@example.com (Ben) Mon, 02 Nov 2009 19:24:00 GMT http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/50#237 Re: Rope and Plank Bridges http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/forum.php?req=thread&postid=236
To start with chain was put through a hole in the beams holding the decking on one side the bridge, on which one side of the foot planks will attach.  This was galvanised steel chain around an inch thick.  There were trees with decking/platforms around them at either end, so the chain then went through multiple beams/holes which made up the deck, and around the tree before coming back out at back across to support the other side of the bridge.  The wire did the same at the other end, and underneath that decking connected to itself.  I think they were linked with a few wire rope grips, but I'm not sure, and can't find any refence images for that.  No slack was left when connecting the 2 ends of the chain.  Previous rope bridges which had the chains connect to singular points on the decking had started to deform the decking after many months, so spreading the weight around the deck solved this.

Planks where then attached down to the chains with nuts and bolts. (Bolts on the underside, and smooth tops on the top).  Large washers were used also, because of the size of chain links in part.   At the end of the bridge on either side 4x4 inch posts where attached to the decking with (about 15mm) rods and bolted in.  2 holes where drilled in these for the main ropes.  1 was the hand rail rope, and the other sat about 1/3rd of the way up from the decking and ran parallel to the hand rail rope.  2 Additional holes where drilled half way into the posts to hide the ends of the these ropes in. The ropes where then screwed into the post.  These ropes where pulled as tight as possible (by hand).  The curve in the bridge forms naturally later on.

4 thinner ropes where then used to make the netting effect along the bridge.  We did the bottom ones first between the chains and the bottom of the 2 thick ropes.  It's easier to reference the attached images, rather than describe the patturn.  All the ropes had melted ends with a whipping knot also.  Spacing between the planks was about an inch.  The only requirement is that there is enough room to pass the thin ropes through and around the chain.  The chain link size makes the spacing variation limited also.  The other part I can't remeber exactly is the ends of the small ropes on all the posts.

Hope this helps guys!

[Image: http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g226/ben_robbins_/01.png]
[Image: http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g226/ben_robbins_/02.png]
[Image: http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g226/ben_robbins_/03.png]
[Image: http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g226/ben_robbins_/04.png] ]]> no_email@example.com (Ben) Mon, 02 Nov 2009 19:10:02 GMT http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/52#236 Re: Stump growth and platform stability? http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/forum.php?req=thread&postid=235
If you want to kill the tree but save the trunk and roots for your stumphouse, you can use an injection of the systemic herbicide glyphosate. This is applied in the growing season in concentrated form via holes drilled into the base of the trunk. Once the leaves die back you can remove the majority of the tree. Additional support from posts should be used if you use a dead stump to support the house. Using any chemicals in this way may not be permitted in your area and the process should only be carried out after consulting with your tree removal contact to ensure it is carried out safely. ]]> no_email@example.com (The Treehouse Guide) Sun, 25 Oct 2009 21:54:30 GMT http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/111#235 Stump growth and platform stability? http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/forum.php?req=thread&postid=234
We're having this tree removed because it is a squirrel magnet and we have squirrel damage to the roof of our house.

One of the tree removal people gave us an estimate of $950 to cut the tree down and an additional $1,200 to remove both the stump and the large, extensive roots.

I then described my "stumphouse" idea, and he said we shouldn't do this because the cambium layer will continue to grow, especially since we would be removing most of the aboveground part of the tree and leaving the root system to supply lots of water. I don't understand this because I thought a tree that has no leaves "dies".

I'm wondering whether he said this because he has an ulterior motive - getting hired to remove the stump and roots. Or is he being a good guy and looking out for the safety of my child? ]]> no_email@example.com (Elsa) Sat, 24 Oct 2009 23:02:10 GMT http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/111#234 Should/Can I redo this support? http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/forum.php?req=thread&postid=233
Attached is a picture of the supporting brackets.  The horizontal beam(s) you see are connected through the tree by a single 3/4 deep-threaded bolt.  My father used them frequently in a similar fashion setting up construction scaffolding for bridgework in the past and felt that this was a tried and true approach.

I am concerned though about having a bolt that is in a tension configuration as a single point of failure.  I would much have preferred to use a single oversized welded 4" channel iron T bracket perpendicular to the joists where the lag bolts would be under shearing pressure instead.

So, should I leave it as is or should I consider welding and bolting in a T-Bracket (8' horizontal, 4' vertical, with 45deg knee braces) and remove the existing supports?  If I bolt a T-Bracket in it is more than likely that the lag bolts I use will be at the same elevation as the bolts on the current bracket just 90degrees around the tree from them... will this compartmentalize and seriously injure the tree?

Thanks,
Michael ]]> no_email@example.com (rosolam) Mon, 28 Sep 2009 22:19:42 GMT http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/110#233 Single Stump Octagonal Platform Treehouse http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/forum.php?req=thread&postid=232 no_email@example.com (cycomoto) Mon, 14 Sep 2009 02:24:33 GMT http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/109#232 Garnier Limb Information (topic: Garnier limbs) http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/forum.php?req=thread&postid=231 http://www.garnierlimb.com and let us know if you know of something we're missing. Thanks! ]]> no_email@example.com (GarnierLimb.com) Sun, 13 Sep 2009 01:54:45 GMT http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/19#231 May 2010 workshop (topic: Tree Top Builders Announces a Tree House Building Workshop) http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/forum.php?req=thread&postid=230 no_email@example.com (The Treehouse Guide) Sun, 06 Sep 2009 11:12:25 GMT http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/108#230 Tree Top Builders Announces a Tree House Building Workshop http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/forum.php?req=thread&postid=229 http://www.treetopbuilders.net/tree-house-workshops.html. ]]> no_email@example.com (Tree Top Builders) Fri, 04 Sep 2009 22:24:31 GMT http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/108#229 A question about brackets http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/forum.php?req=thread&postid=227
I am currently thinking about building a tree house for my lids. I have an old lime tree in my garden, which has three study boughs (branches). I thought that rather than build the tree house off the main trunk, I would put three platform supports running between the branches.

I wondered about the best way to fix the platform support beams to the boughs. I thought of metal U shaped brackets, which go underneath the bough, affixing at the bottom of the U to the bough, and then two right angle extensions that affixed to the platform support beam. Do such brackets exist? And are they to be recommended?

Any help or advice would be most welcome,

cheers,

T. ]]> no_email@example.com (treehouse_tony) Mon, 17 Aug 2009 14:26:26 GMT http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/106#227 Alder (topic: Tree types) http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/forum.php?req=thread&postid=226
My housemates and I are considering the construction of a treehouse, using 3 alders (14" to 17" in diameter each) as base trees. We'd like to build around 10' to 12' off the ground. Does anyone have any experience with alders, or know any pros or cons about using them?

My brother tells me that:
a) they are not considered "structural" wood, so far as carpentry is concerned.
b) they are comparatively short-lived (40 to 60 years, or 60 to 100 years, depending on type), bringing into question the wisdom of building in them.
c) they have irregular grains, causing them to have fairly poor shear strength.
d) he would not build a treehouse in an alder.

Bearing this in mind, I'm curious if anyone has success stories, because alders are the only trees of sufficient size available to us (on our property).

Thanks!

Derek ]]> no_email@example.com (DerekHauffe) Wed, 12 Aug 2009 00:40:51 GMT http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/10#226 Design input http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/forum.php?req=thread&postid=225
I'm in the planning stages of a treehouse for our back yard that I would like to start building in the next few days or so.

The plan is to build a 10x10 platform that is suspended off to one side of the tree (which is about 29" in diameter).  So, around 8 feet will be sticking out from the tree.  I'll attach an image of my preliminary plan.
I have a few questions. 

1.  Is this a sane design at all
2.  Would 3/4" lag bolts be sufficient
3.  Can I move the knee braces in at all to have more overhang (and get them further off the ground)
4.  Can I get away with having the center beam (45 degrees between the others) tied to the other beams and not the tree (to avoid another hole)
5.  Is this overbuilt or underbuilt? 
6.  Is there any other constructive criticism to be had?

The beams and braces in my drawing are 4x8s and the floor joists are 2x8s
I can also attach a sketchup file if that would be useful.
Thanks for any and all help that can be provided!

         -Jeremy ]]> no_email@example.com (jag) Fri, 07 Aug 2009 19:39:51 GMT http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/105#225 What about loblollies? (topic: Tree types) http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/forum.php?req=thread&postid=224 I have 3 loblollies close together that would work very well. The only problem is: they are loblollies. They move a lot. They do have some caliber (all have @ 10-12 in. caliber up to about 8-10ft up). Like most of their species, there are no branches until higher up in the tree than I dare. The circumferential growth is much slower than the vertical. As softwoods, they are not particularly long lived, but would last at least through my kids' passage to adulthood. Hurricanes (an occasional hazard in NC, though we are pretty far inland and they usually just result in nasty thunderstorms) do knock them over sometimes.

Is it possible to use these trees? Has anyone successfully used loblollies? I have no other options in my backyard. What would people recommend for flexible joints? How high would you have to build given the increased sway of a softwood? Is there a particular design or technique required?

Answers to these questions will help me convince (or add weight to the concerns of) my safety conscious wife.

Thanks and hoping for supportive arguments (haha),
Dave ]]> no_email@example.com (kiwi) Sat, 01 Aug 2009 13:04:04 GMT http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/10#224 safety -- load question http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/forum.php?req=thread&postid=223
Here are my questions:

1)  I plan on using 4 x 4's overhanging the beams.  What is the maximum overhang I should use?  I thought 18" would be the max.

2)  Does the structure need more bracing on the floating end of the beams?  I could, and probably will, build a ladder at that ens to provide support.

3)  My plan changed mid stream...my beam supports extend about 3 feet beyond where the support is attached (at a 45 angle) and lead back to the tree.  There is about 4 feet of beam behind the support on the closer side of the tree.... I know I was supposed to place the support at least 2/3'ds of the way out the beam...which I am not doing anymore (4/7).  SHOULD I ADD ANOTHER 2 x 6 support to the beams above that is placed farther out on the beam?  IF so, how far?

4)  The house above is now looking like a 5.5 ft wide and six feet long with a 1 foot balcony..... any load problems???? ]]> no_email@example.com (joemendes) Tue, 28 Jul 2009 12:22:50 GMT http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/104#223 Re: One bolt for two beams? http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/forum.php?req=thread&postid=222
John Steele: My treehouse design has a triangular foundation of three framing beams resting on three tree limbs, each approximately 9" in diameter.
This design could be improved by having metal brackets at each corner of the triangle which are then bolted to the tree with one specialised tree bolt each. You would get much higher strength than with lag bolts and the bracket would cause much less restriction to the growth of the tree than bolting wood on either side of each branch. It would be worth considering using flexible joints at two of the corners to allow the tree to move in the wind without stressing the supports.

vamture: ...two 2x10 support beams spanning the two trunks.
To avoid restricting the tree's growth unnecessarily, use a single 4x10 or doubled 2x10s on one side of the trunk only. A single tree bolt could be used at each end. One end of the beam should be allowed to move in a flexible bracket or by suspending from steel cable, again fixed to one bolt. Another arrangement to span two trees with two beams is shown below. The plywood can be replaced with braces underneath for larger loads.

[Image: http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/constructiontutorials/images/twotreeplywoodbrace.png] ]]> no_email@example.com (The Treehouse Guide) Mon, 27 Jul 2009 14:25:02 GMT http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/99#222 Re: cantelever support question http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/forum.php?req=thread&postid=221
These lengths of beams and braces are pushing the limits a little. While the span and size of the beams could withstand the load of a small, single level treehouse, you would need more of them radiating out to properly support the 8'x8' floor you mention, otherwise the treehouse could tip over either side of the 'V' formed by these two beams.

The braces may take the load, but could bend when loaded due to their length. Having a cantilevered floor could cause them to twist and buckle more easily. You could replace the braces with larger timber, add more braces and reinforce the braces with cross bracing. Extra beams would reduce the load on the braces that you do use and reduce the amount the floor needs to overhang. Another alternative is to support parts of the floor with cables, but depending on the house design you could have cables coming up through the floor.

Ultimately the size that the treehouse can be is determined by several factors - weight, height, local wind speed, support materials and type of tree. Calculating the size of supports can therefore be complicated so it's best to overbuild them as much as possible to add redundancy and use lightweight materials for the house structure to keep the load to a minimum. ]]> no_email@example.com (The Treehouse Guide) Mon, 27 Jul 2009 14:05:04 GMT http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/103#221 cantelever support question (one tree, treehouse) http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/forum.php?req=thread&postid=220
Here is my question:

1)  Did I make these beams extend to far out for a safe cantilever?  ( I did use 2 x 6 for the 45 degree angle that attached to the tree....and the 2 X 6 is 12' long)

2)  If the beams are safe, what size structure can I place on them.  Originally I was thinking 8' by 8'....but is this too big?

3)  If either the cantilever span is too long, or the structure is too big to be supported to be safe...I do have ONE idea.  I coud post posts under the 2 X 8's to safely support the structure.

Oh yeah, the structure is 17 feet off the ground...wanted it to exciting.....hmmmmm

Thanks for your comments.  I am just a teacher...what did I get myself into!!!????? ]]> no_email@example.com (joemendes) Sun, 26 Jul 2009 13:59:41 GMT http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/103#220 Re: One bolt for two beams? http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/forum.php?req=thread&postid=219 no_email@example.com (vamture) Fri, 24 Jul 2009 22:27:17 GMT http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/99#219 Re: Cable suspension http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/forum.php?req=thread&postid=218 I think this information on eye bolts/screws needs to be re-worded, as what I've written is contradictory.

Eye bolts and screws are rated on a safe working load (SWL) pulling in line with the bolt. If the load is angled, the SWL will be reduced by a large amount. Sometimes this is listed in the specifications, sometimes not. When fitting a bolt in a tree it is highly likely that you will be loading the eye at an angle of 45-60 degrees so you will have to overspecify the size of the bolt accordingly.

In terms of tree damage, there is very little data about what will or will not damage the tree. The advice to reduce the number of puncture points is based on the hypothesis that having more than one puncture point close together will cause the tree to seal off the area around and between the bolts, possibly causing decay and future failure of the joint. In terms of fitting an eye bolt, I would suggest that bolting through the tree is safer in the short term, as a bolt with nut and washer is less likely to pull out than a lag screw. This does mean that you are making a puncture wound on each side of the tree, but the tree should be able to seal these wounds up without joining them and without causing significant disruption to nutrient/water flow.

For major supports where the parts will be carrying a lot of weight, I would recommend getting a design made up by one of the treehouse building companies as your situation may require a specially engineered solution. Otherwise you may be better trying to support the treehouse from underneath with knee braces or posts. ]]> no_email@example.com (The Treehouse Guide) Mon, 13 Jul 2009 13:14:46 GMT http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/40#218 Re: Cable suspension http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/forum.php?req=thread&postid=217
2 Other question that I am grappling with:

1.  If I use a through eye bolt (instead of a lag) will the extra damage it caused weaken (compartmentalize) the tree and make it MORE unsafe that if I used a lag eye bolt?  I can't find thick enough lag eye bolts that have shoulders-  They are all the wire type (not forged) and are light duty- even at bolt depot.

2.  In your diagram for a 2 tree design you have 2 eye bolts positioned at each tree.  How do you afix these and avoid compartmentalization. Do I put them 2 feet apart vertically? If I do that is it wise to drill through the tree?  Thanks for your consideration. Steve ]]> no_email@example.com (gagliardones) Fri, 10 Jul 2009 15:19:52 GMT http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/40#217 Re: Treehouse http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/forum.php?req=thread&postid=216 no_email@example.com (cameroncoats) Tue, 07 Jul 2009 23:32:41 GMT http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/89#216 Re: Rope and Plank Bridges http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/forum.php?req=thread&postid=215
Anybody find anything?  I have a creek that my dad wants me to build a rope and blank bridge over and I can't find any good links, especially ones with rope tie suggestions.  Anything would help. ]]> no_email@example.com (Omaha) Sat, 30 May 2009 13:43:16 GMT http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/52#215 Re: Placement of J brackets http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/forum.php?req=thread&postid=213
You need 3 flexible joints in total:
1: for the beam from post to tree
2: for the beam from the other post to the other tree, and
3: for the beam between the two trees (only needs a flex joint at one end)

Hope this helps ]]> no_email@example.com (Miles) Fri, 22 May 2009 11:22:28 GMT http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/101#213 Re: Question about building a foundation http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/forum.php?req=thread&postid=212
I understand what you mean but I would still use flex joints. There's no doubt that a solid triangular structure will brace the trees together to some extent, but an engineer would advise flexible joints everytime. ]]> no_email@example.com (Miles) Fri, 22 May 2009 11:17:04 GMT http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/84#212 Re: j brackets http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/forum.php?req=thread&postid=211
I'm having some j-brackets and box brackets made up for me by a local engineering firm. The more I order the cheaper they become, so if you want one, please let me know. ]]> no_email@example.com (Miles) Thu, 21 May 2009 14:40:28 GMT http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/100#211 2 tree design/spans http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/forum.php?req=thread&postid=210 my other questions are:
1. would you adjust the triangular support for a wider span? what's an appropriate size and material?
2. which pieces should be pressure-treated and which don't need to be?
3. any tips on the roof? would you attach to the tree? or bolt 4x4 posts to the floor frame and build a roof onto that?
any input is appreciated as i try to sort through the technical details.
thanks! ]]> no_email@example.com (jatanat) Mon, 18 May 2009 23:50:49 GMT http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/102#210 Placement of J brackets http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/forum.php?req=thread&postid=209
should the brackets allow flexibility between the two trees.. OR, should they allow flexibility between each South tree and its opposite North post? 

PLEASE any help would be GREATLY appreciated....im dying over here haha ]]> no_email@example.com (cmwalsh1) Sat, 18 Apr 2009 00:00:22 GMT http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/101#209 j brackets (where can i get some) http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/forum.php?req=thread&postid=208 no_email@example.com (smidsters) Sat, 11 Apr 2009 23:27:50 GMT http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/100#208 One bolt for two beams? http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/forum.php?req=thread&postid=207
If this isn't advisable, the alternative will have to be one lag screw per branch, each screw supporting the two framing beams.

Thanks. ]]> no_email@example.com (John Steele) Sat, 28 Mar 2009 18:53:13 GMT http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/99#207 Re: Question about building a foundation http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/forum.php?req=thread&postid=206 This is onlinev from canada. I am a newbie of this site and in
my opinion this is a good site to visit on for the visitors.
It has a lot for the visitors.     
onlinev
workout plans ]]> no_email@example.com (onlinev) Wed, 25 Mar 2009 11:45:15 GMT http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/forum/84#206